Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Funny Wedding Announcements Wordings

Sharpening

Sharp:

A knife does not cut or puncture is a knife?
I'd say it's a good question and opens thousands of questions, especially if the knives are knives and art are art-shaped knife.

But we'll leave that for another discussion now let's talk a bit about sharpening knife, sections of leaves and some tips to make the cut.

That is sharpening a knife?

is to bring the thickness of the sheet to the minimum possible this way we achieve a smooth surface and sharp.

The knife should cut?
must be efficient for the task for which it was created. Ie n
or is the same as a capo or camping knife, a cuereador, a machete.
They all have different purposes and therefore different edge claims.
I need to sharpen a knife?

Depending on the state in which the sheet or receive, we need a coarse-grained stone 80 (ideally a diamond), or natural fine na, leather, or sole, and oil to lubricate the stones. We may also use sandpaper of different grain, you can use water instead of oil (depending on the stone), there are steels that are very useful, and polishing paste.

As that edge I'm giving my knife?

The edge sharpness is given by the angle at which work on the stone. That is a lot of practice, guided the angles shown in the chart.



The idea is to keep the same angle over the entire surface of the edge and support the highest leaf on the stone. We'll
circular motion while moving the stone to get the entire edge is even.
is very important to lubricate it with water or oil stone. This means that the movement is smoother and remove the remains of the stone we hewn steel.
Once we make the first pass over the coarse stone to the finest pass to get to the point stone finest we have.
Once we get a good edge with stones we leather, this item will make matching a cutting edge offering spectacular. We support the blade flat on the leather and making a move bring the sheet. This operation must be done many times and where possible adding polishing paste to do it.

The leaves have a convex section is ideal to use sandpaper on leather.
Thus we have a good backup to copy the convex shape of the leaf.
The procedure is very similar established that of leather, nothing else that you see between the leather and sandpaper leaf that anger is a refinement of the face until desired sharpness. Try not to use the thicker sandpaper 400 grit.




Friday, June 22, 2007

Hair Scrunchies Toronto



Fire I
In a survival situation in cold areas, our lives may depend on our ability to start and maintain a fire. Without going to such extremes, we need fire to dry off, warm, to signal to rescuers and cooking eliminates the germs and parasites in our food.

Also, as hikers, we may be tempted to sit beside a campfire under the stars. In this case you must take into account the laws governing these practices in your country. In Spain, and especially in Galicia, this practice is prohibited during the warmer months and severely penalized.

In any case, do not forget that a fire is very dangerous, you must follow all safety rules:

- Do not make fires larger than necessary, are more difficult to control and maintain.
- Remove twigs and combustible materials within a radius of two or three meters around the fire.
- Do not do it around the bushes or low branches
- Be always close to a bucket or other container with water and / or leafy branch to turn it off quickly if necessary.

must always carry in your backpack or luggage, especially if we are to cross inhospitable areas, a lighter and / or matches in a waterproof container (a box of photo reel, for example. He has also scrapers) or waterproof (with nail polish or paraffin). If we do, our chances of survival increase and not have to worry about making fire with improvised means.

Prepare, start and keep the fire
First of all we must decide where you will place, paying attention to wind and vegetation, and site preparation by removing branches, herbs, etc.

is a good idea to dig a hole about 10 to 15 cm and surround it with stones to hold the stake in it. When you rid the camp, we will cover the ashes with the land we took, we will return the stones to their site and leave everything so that nobody can notice that we have been there. (This rule is good if we follow both fire or not).

must find the combustible material: dried branches of different thicknesses, the most petite to turn and to keep it thicker. Not be difficult to find in woodlands and dry weather. Floods build branches in the river banks and occasionally make a real reef. The lower branches of trees are often dry and break easily. In wet weather we should look into the recesses of snags, which provide well-rotted wood burning in areas sheltered by rocks, roads, caves. If it has not rained too much, perhaps we simply husking dry wood wet legs. If not, we will have to take the thick stems and cut into lengthwise pieces to dry wood chips to obtain. Wet wood will dry near the fire.

To light the fire we will use the finest wood top will have in a "teepee" or "shed" with the help of a rock or a log for good air circulation and swelling fast. Above the thin wood will be adding thicker. If you do not have enough fine wood chips can do the thickest with the help of our knife.

On the basis of "teepee" or "shed" we will put the "punk", which is the flammable material to turn. Consist of leaves, dry grass, twigs, pine conifers, its leaves or needles, resin. The rotten wood is a good tinder in wet weather, it is usually easier to pull the outer parts of the trunks to reach the dry inland areas. Some nuts, like walnuts, have an oil that makes them flammable and burn slowly. Especially useful is the birch bark cut into strips, then ignites quickly and burns slowly and with good flame. You can even make a makeshift torch by winding a strip of bark to a stick.

In places where wood is not the man turns to other fuels. In the deserts burning camel dung and in the polar regions, the fat of seals and other animals. Types of wood


Not all burn like firewood, emit the same heat and flames, they form a lasting embers. Each wood has its own characteristics. Sauri Alan describes in his book "The Self-Sufficient Life - Ed Blume" the characteristics of the firings of the most common trees in this way:

"Leñas harsh: Dan low flame, but its slow and prolonged heat makes them excellent for cooking and heating.

Maple: Well, good flame
Carpe: Excellent fuel, flame, good grilled
Fresno: Well, good coal, heat
Hague: Good, good coal, called clear
Olivo: Excellent, long-lasting embers
Olmo: Strong heat, burning slowly
False Acacia: Good, bad coals, very chisporreteante
Oak: Well (also for charcoal) is consumed slowly turns black and charred.


Leñas tender: The flames quickly consumed continuously, are, therefore, excellent wood for turning or illuminate.

Birch burns well and quickly, clear flames. To light and light wood
Alamo: Mediocre
Aliso: Burns well and quickly
Hazel: Wood to start
Castaño: Low heat, sparks fires
Chestnut: Bad firewood
Majuelo: Burns well and fast but is green banana
: Mediocre and noisy
Sauce: Llamas clear and vivid, light wood for Elder
Firewood small to turn
Tilo: Mediocre


resinous Leñas: Its branches, hardwood is a better fuel than its trunk, wood earliest . Burn with a flame, but short-lived. A often give off a strong smoke.

Fir: flames, smoky
Larch Medium, crackling, good coal
Picea: Heat quickly, good flames, coals
short Pino: Heat and flames, short-lived. The cones are great for lighting the fire. "
Fire
improvised methods
It is best not to commit the blunder of not taking a reserve matches or a lighter. But if we are without these conventional means to light a fire there are other systems improvised a simple and effective and more complicated if we do not practice. In these cases it is especially important to have prepared enough tinder (Grass dry leaves etc. well compacted so that the coals are spread easily) and fine and dry wood to avoid wasting a flame that might have cost us much effort to achieve. Gently blow is usually effective when the first red dot to fan the flame. The methods are:


A magnifying lenses or lenses of a camera, binoculars or certain glasses are a very effective way to start a fire, but we will if it is sunny. First prepared a good tinder to ignite easily and point to them that speck of light. Flint and link


is a good system that works in all circumstances. If you do not have flint We can try a hard stone. (Need to try until we find one that discards good spark, and then save it for other occasions.) We hold the flint near the tinder and beaten with a piece of steel, such as the blade of a knife, trying to direct the sparks to the tinder. Arco


Indian bearing system is a well-known air friction very adventurous, but if we can not choose the wood you'll use most likely fails to ignite the fire.
consists of rapidly spinning rod using a bow on another piece of wood. Build the arch with a flexible arm and a cord (shoes, bag, parka, etc.).
If we want the method to work we must rub against hardwood lumber (see previous page firewood and firewood hard tender). In any system of friction of wood, if we get a black dust, and coal, we will correct with the right wood, however, if we get a rough, gritty dust, desechémosla and seek another.
When it starts to smoke add the tinder well compacted so that the coals are spread easily and blow gently rubbing while continuing to achieve a flame.


saw method is a method typical of the jungle, and is using a soft wood, usually bamboo for "saw" (made a sawing motion) other hard, often coconut shells. Used as tinder cottony fiber from the leaves of coconut, brown hair covering of some palm trees or the membrane that we can get from bamboo.


belt method will use a strip of linen or other strong fiber and softwood industry. Industry will rise slightly by placing a stone. Pass the strap under the stone and will throw alternately from one end and the other to produce friction. You have previously placed the tinder under the branch, touching the belt.


Other methods can be used to make sparks battery cables connecting the two poles.
also in theory it is possible to manufacture a lens with a piece of ice carved with a knife and end up giving way to the hollows of their hands. Even if the cold is intense, the risk of freezing our hands may be too high. It is also possible to use a concave object (the ass of a bottle, for example) to make the lens, pouring water on it and letting it freeze. If we do two, we can paste with a little water if the cold is intense, it will freeze quickly.
sometimes add a few drops of gasoline or alcohol on the tinder can ease inflammation, but not thoroughly soaked.
If you use gasoline or other fuel in a container to warm, note that there is a potential risk of accident. Never add more fuel until the flame is turned off and the container to cool. Fire to warm


To take advantage of the heat reflector must build a fire with some wood or use a natural (a rock formation, a low area, a large tree ...) we must pay attention to wind direction lest we come smoke in the face. Between the fire and the reflector prepare a dry bed, soft and comfortable where we will stand us. Y. LP Knoeffler Coineau and say on this subject in his work live and survive in nature. Ed Martinez Roca: "Light a fire intense long before the time of rest and shortly before this, cover the bed of coals with a thin layer of ash. Heat, returned by the reflector, heat for about 8 hours and enclosed area. "


cooking fires is better to cook a small bonfire that consumes less fuel and is easy to maintain. It is always on practical cooking embers of the flame.
We can build a home that will serve to put the pot by making a small fire between two logs, two stones, etc.
If our pan has a handle like that of the cubes can hold over the fire with a "crane" improvised with a bent arm clamped between stones and another branch that worked as a "hanger."

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Black Diamonds And Pearls Party

Fire Tongs Heat treatment


Forged

The hot forming, either by forging, pressing or rolling, must take into account: the behavior of each steel during warm, work itself, and subsequent cooling.

This requires some prior experience as steels of different compositions expand and contract differently in the heating and / or cooling from the forging temperature. The forged high alloy steels is very delicate and we must abide by specifications the manufacturer.

structurally in solid solution, steels have the highest malleability, that is composed of steel beads austerita. This grain is a solid solution of iron carbide in iron range (magnetic iron). The appearance of austenite in the heating of ordinary steel, carbon occurs above 720 ° c (Ac1 or critical point below) and ends to become completely between this and the 910 º C, depending on this percentage of carbon in composition. In this final transformation point is called critical point above Ac3.

Pure iron (0% carbon) is the point Ac1 = 720 ° c, and Ac3 = 900 ° c. While in the steel of eutectic composition (0.9% carbon) in austerita transformation occurs at a single temperature of 720 º C approx.

These temperature ranges are important, both for casting and for any heat treatment applied to steel.

temperature material, the beginning of the slab should be about 100 to 300 ° c higher than the upper critical point Ac3, and at the end, no less than this. Besides temperature should be adjusted to the size of the piece to build, as well as to the degree of deformation. The small pieces are heated at a lower temperature than large ones, but in both cases, the temperature Forged end should not be less than the Ac3 point.

A too rapid and uneven heating, or degree of deformation with a too steep and uneven cooling of the floor too quickly can cause stress cracks and deformations.

Up to approx. 800 º c, the heating must be slow and uniform. You can then rise more rapidly to the final temperature. Forging temperature is reached, proceed rapidly to deformation; exceed or maintain the same temperature for too long, it causes a coarse-grained. The steel is fragile, it takes less quenching, can be superficially decarburized and general properties are diminished physical.

After forging parts must be cooled slowly and evenly, for example. dry ash.

Annealing

forged

After many steels, particularly steel, are too harsh for a further mechanization and must be annealed to achieve a certain degree of softening.

Depending on the aim sought by the annealing for a carbon steel of 0.60% of this, the temperature can range between 680 º c to 800 º c.

Standard

If the steel is maintained for a long time at higher temperatures the upper critical (Ac3), the austenite crystals tend to grow and grow. This temperature increases with higher this, and the longer the duration of heating, and as the grain size after the treatment is very dependent on the size had austerita crystals, we get a rude and a steel structure of low features. When this happens, to tune, just heated to a temperature more just above the upper critical (Ac3) and then cooling more or less quickly into the air as the composition . In air cooling, the austenite grains become smaller, making a later temple, a fine-grained steel of better quality.

Temple

The temple is an operation that is to cool the steel by heating something beyond its upper critical point (Ac3) in a medium that will remove the heat, quickly as possible. This means that the steel must be in state austenitic (nonmagnetic) and this product have been heated by about 720 ° c, depending the final temperature of the chemical composition of steel.

To produce austerita-martensite transformation, the cooling rate should be equal to or above the "critical speed" cooling for the steel in question. As such, this varies with the chemical composition of each steel.

quenching effects on carbon steels

a) increases the hardness from 1.5 to three times.

b) Increases resistance almost 50%.

c) Decreases elongation, shrinkage, workability and toughness.

d) Tune the grain.

e) can lead to distortions in the piece.

f) can cause cracking and breaking.

g) slightly increases the volume of the piece.

h) increases the electrical resistance.

factors that determine a good temper

a) The cold-worked pieces (temp.menor to 500 degrees c) forged or were warm, have a very homogeneous structure, so whereas before warm them practicable

annealing

b) Percentage of carbon: the quantity of this metalloid has great influence on the hardness of hardened steel that acquires, which contains 0.1% almost no hardening, while those containing 1.2% carbon, high strength gain .

A steel that is already hard, raise their hardness with low intensity of hardening, while maintaining their tenacity to get the same hard drive with a steel less open to employ more aggressive cooling bath, which ara more brittle steel.

c) Heating: the heating rate must be paramount, taking care that the piece reaches its thermal equilibrium, without which the carbon does not enter into solid soluduion the austerita causing a surface hardening.

d) Cooling rate: the hardness acquired by the tempered steel, is greater the faster it cools. This speed depends on the nature of steel, part dimensions, nature and temperature of cooling bath, how he keeps in the bathroom part for tuning, and the surface state of the pieces.

Tempering

Tempering is the heat treatment is carried out after quenching, and involves heating the hardened steel at temperatures below the critical point lower (Ac1-720 º c) and oil quenching or air. It is advisable to do it immediately after quenching to avoid the danger of breakage due to internal tensions.

The purpose of this treatment are:

a) Delete molecular tensions arising in the temple.

b) increase the toughness and tempering losses.

c) To improve the mechanical properties of materials and mix refined structures.

annealing treatment increases the toughness, because the structure becomes harder hardening (martensite) in a less fragile, but the hardness decreases.

factors that determine the characteristics of tempering, the temperature and exposure time to this.

temperature allows the material to reach the degree of toughness related to the work to be done, the exposure time makes the transformation of the structure, reach the heart of the piece.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge


By: Carlos Pedemonte



Survey Confidentiality Clause Examples



Tongs:

is very difficult to get clips for the forged knives, because almost nonexistent and there should be so old that you would like more save to use.

So I'll show you some steps to build two more models that are used in the forged knives.

addition to trying to forge these tweezers anger the forge, anvil and hammer.

normal clip:

This clip is the most commonly used to hold from a clod to the stem of a leaf. Besides being almost perfect extension of our hand.

To forge we will use the 14 mm iron , as discussed earlier. The measure is 2 bars 60 centimeters long

First transform the round-flat in the first 15cm. We try to always hit the same side to move the material on one side of the bar.

When we flattened rounds using another rod and hammer formed two entries on the sides of the flat. It is important to have an entry for each
side.

squirm with entries made the first section using a wrench or pliers (another).

repeat with the two bars.

make a hole that allows us to go screw ¼ and riveting.

Once they have everything ready can go clip accommodating to them more useful and comfortable.

stork for lateral grip clip:

This clamp is ideal to build the basis of Flat bars as it takes from the sidelines with a firm grip. It is also very ultil when we want to forge swords.

The process is the same as above so I will just leave the photos.














Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Pinky And The Brain Episodes Online Free

Forge Chapter II Basic

CHAPTER II

Smithies, Anvils , Hammers ....

Forge is where we will concentrate in forging temperature and possibly temper our leaves.

There are several types and models. From the handle to the propane gas all more or less fulfilled their duties efficiently it is heated steel.

coal forges are easy to improvise and economic to build. Intrudciendo simply a pipe with holes in a pile of burning coal and using a hair dryer can generate enough heat to forge and temper.


Other forges a little more equipped with the best results are to handle. They have a turbine that is operated by turning a lever. This allows us to regulate the air flow and thus the temperature. They are also of simple construction and highly recommended for beginners.

Gas ovens are very efficient if done well. Ideally, use an oven that has the inside cylindrical and covered with the best material refractory possible. To be cylindrical and have the tangential heat input is used to center the better the flame along the route that you have. The square oven work but also consume more gas and take longer to heat up.


Anvils:


The anvil is where we will shape our sheets, riveted the ends, and do a thousand things. It is simple but very important for the blacksmith.

That should be the anvil? The main thing is to have good weight and surface area to hit. You have to calculate that the anvil must be at least 3 times heavier than the blade, but the hammer, but the force of the blow. So as you can but do not have the same capacity to absorb the blows of the hammer and it will affect our bones. Need a minimum of 20 Kgs. Can be forged on an anvil lighter? If

Almost everyone uses as a first anvil railroad track, which is not bad because it is to get an anvil is going to a china shop and try to get a block

discarded steel. If we have a chance to get an anvil itself better, and the heavier the better.

Several of the more common types are twofold. English style with round horn, step and long flat table, and the anvil have a 2 horns are rounded and the other steel, beaten and generally not economic. Another good obtuse.



Hammers and Maces.

main thing to look for in a hammer or mallet to shape the distribution of weight, then the form, and finally the material that is made.

need the part of the hammer face is heavier than the rest, this makes the blow always try to fall that way and prevents product movement imbalance.

The shape and weight is directly related to the function that the hammer will do, if it is to stretch is not the same as that used to lower edge or riveting.

Mainly we will use three types of hammers of different weights.



1) Maza of 1.5 kgs of circular or round, it is advisable to get a Hammer ball that weight. This will use it to stretch and to lower the first edge. The cape is thin and comfortable to allow for different grips.

2) Hammer 500 g ball, this is used to stretch thin edges for riveting, and to provide sensitive ways.

3) Maza of 1.5 French or sentence style. This club is ideal for material stretch and board thickness. It has a flat section on one side and a soft wedge another. The cape is thick and makes it ideal for jobs requiring strength.

All of these hammers vary by builder, myself I have like 5 more. But are the basics.

Material hammer.

hammers

I always use soft iron or annealed steel. I try to avoid hard cocks for two reasons. 1 am interested in avoiding any brand in the cast so I prefer to be dented a little hammer and I do not check the sheet, 2 the value is too low and are easily available and up to do.

Can I Connect Xbox With Usb



Lighting the fire:

This chapter is the beginning of this passion that led us to make the first forged knife.

Think before you begin so that we are finally making the knife, which kind of use we will give you, and we can do really.

Maybe today you are with little equipment and only have a bracero fan powered by a hand, or may already have your own gas forge . These early questions are you going to do whenever I started a new project.

Let us then choose, if we can, a steel that is right for our knife. Try to learn as much as possible the steel, the source, if possible, manufacturer and all the technical details of the recommended heat treatment.

Many times, especially at the beginning of our trip did not even know where to go to buy steel or just do not know how to ask for steel.

This is simple. The plates are grouped by characteristics that make them up, ie the component that predominates in the "mix" will give Steel name or number.

So much so that the steel SAE by the acronym in English are numbered for each item. For example, carbon steels always start with number 1, the number that follows is the amount of this component has. For example the 1045 steel has 0.45% carbon and 0.95

1095

continued in the table can see the classification used for the SAE steels and that number corresponds to each steel.


12xx

Carbon Steels

10XX

Only 1.00% max carbon

11XX

free machining Refulcirizado

Refulcirizato free machining Refosfatado

15XX

only carbon, 1.00-1.65% Mn

Manganese Steels

13xx

1.75% Mn

nickel steel

23XX

3.50% Ni

25XX

5.00% Ni

Chromium Nickel Steels

31XX

1.25% Ni, Cr .65 -. 80%

32XX

1.75% Ni, 1.07% Cr

33XX

3.50% Ni, 1.50 to 1.57% Cr

34XX

Ni 3.00%, 0.77% Cr

Aceros al Molivdeno

40XX

Mo .20-.25%

44XX

Mo .40-.52%

Aceros Cromo Molibdeno

41XX

Cr .50-.95%, Mo .12-.30%

Aceros Níquel Cromo Molibdeno

43XX

Ni 1.82%, Cr .50-.80%, Mo .25%

47xx

1.05% Ni, Cr .45%, Mo .20 -. 35%

Nickel Molybdenum Steel

46XX

Ni .85-1.82%, Mo .20 -. 25%

48XX

3.50% Ni, Mo .25%

Chromium steels

50XX

Cr .27-.65%

51XX

Cr .80-1.05%

50XXX

Cr .50%, C 1.00% min

51XXX

Cr 1.02%, C 1.00% min

52XXX

Cr 1.45%, C 1.00% min

Aceros Chrome vanadium

61xx

Cr .60 -. 95%, V .10 -. 15%

Aceros tungsten chrome

72xx

W 1.75%, Cr .75%

Nickel Chromium Molybdenum Aceros

81xx

Ni .30%, Cr .40%, .12% Mo

86xx

Ni .55%, Cr .50%, .20% Mo

87xx

Ni .55%, Cr .50 %, Mo .25%

88xx

Ni .55%, Cr .50%, .35% Mo

Silico Manganese Steels

92XX

If

1.40-2.00% Mn .65-.85%, Cr 0-.65%

Aceros Níquel Cromo Molibdeno

93XX

Ni 3.25%, Cr 1.20%, Mo .12%

94XX

Ni .45%, Cr .40%, Mo .12%

97XX

Ni .55%, Cr .20%, Mo .20%

98XX

1.00% Ni, Cr .80%, .25% Mo


But of all these which serve us for cutlery? , the idea is that steel cutlery is at least 0.50% carbon. But why? The amount of carbon is what gives you the ability to acquire the steel hardness is what differentiates it from simple iron.

Other components we will be adding properties in the final balance. For example, a carbon-chromium steel, such as 5160, in addition to 0.60% carbon is 0.80 to 1% chromium which adds better edge retention and greater resistance to oxidation, but oxidized it is less than the 1060. On with the numbers. The 52100 has 1 to 1.10% carbon and up to 2% chromium. So we have a steel having the maximum amount of carbon added to the chrome double the 5160.

Below you will see a table of steels used for cutlery. Do not panic if you do not know any because many are with their trade names.
















Once we get the steel either purchased or recycled try to find out what type it in order to complete the heat treatment. Below you will find a list of the most common steels can be found in pottery from around the world and its possible uses.

Agricultural Tools 1080

Bearing Bolillas 52100

tape Sierra L6

Clutch Disc 1070

Spirals Cushions 5160

Rods engine 1040

Cigüeñal 1045

wicks m2

Quotes of vetilador 1020

Files W2

Engranajes transmission 3115

Disc Plow 1080

Industrial Knives m2

Piano String 1085

railroad tracks 4140

Railroad Nails 1020

suspension Elastics 5160 / 9260

mechanical saws saw m42

steel But what use?

I recommend you start with the most basic and easy to work. That allows us to make mistakes and it's not too expensive. For this the ideal is the 5160, it is achieved price at the battery, and is also easily accessible by the china shop.

If ever you have questions about steel I recommend you do a simple test. Smoothly is to support the piece of steel on a stone or a grinding machine and see what kind of sparks out to do.

Iron or 1030. As shown in the photo sparks are thin and long, and mostly linear.



In this case the steel is 52100. The sparks are more crowded and a short distance from the abrasive contact form "clusters" difurcan or forming stars. This tells us that we are facing steel and not iron.

With the passage of time and the various tests that can gauge fencing by the eye and come to realize how much is in each sample.




Sunday, March 11, 2007

Appeal Letter Examples For Reinstatement



Low budget


Among the more experienced members of the community d and sports enthusiasts knives periodically are some brands or styles of knives which benefits greatly outweigh price. In general these designs or manufacturers
with no exposure U.S. media brand, but are often known for his long career in their country of origin. Unfortunately this means that many users do not even know they exist and that, seeing them as distrust and lack information.
So we decided to throw some light on some of the best knives on a budget, especially those outside the big American brands (because information on the latter is more accessible to the average consumer).
is important to clarify some things when we talk about cheap knives. The first and fundamental, is that you will not find a knife and finishing materials themselves one piece of several hundred dollars for a price ten times lower. It is also true that, as these knives are usually directed to those who work daily with them and know how to care for, sometimes not the most suitable for a beginner (some models are ideal if, as discussed below). This last point is also one of the undeniable attractions of this kind of knives, anyone can get a good knife sports for two hundred dollars, but finding one for ten or twenty shows a true knowledge. There are just some knives that indicate that the bearer is a man who knows his stuff, is pure without ostentation and tools that require more skill and finesse that these barrettes edged belt hanging of many.
If you are a fan of tactical knives, heavy black leaves and quick release folding, this is the time to stop reading and look for a new Strider. There is nothing wrong with these knives, but here we are dealing with are much simpler and traditional




(although there will be a small section for them later). On the other hand, if you take a chance on the leaves that have kept out of harm's owners for hundreds of years, continue. What I can promise is that it will cost.
If we fixed blade knives for ridiculously low prices, but cut like a scalpel, Scandinavian knives are the first to come to mind. There are, of course, versions with rich materials and careful finish that rival the best in the world, but the traditional work knives are excellent and very affordable. The comfort of their rope (designed to be used with gloves in the cold northern winters), the medium sized leaves and bezel known as "Scandi grind" or "Zero bevel" (ie, no secondary bevel, very easy sharpening) makes them excellent cutting tools, especially useful for working in wood, but equally successful when leather or deboning. The spike given a full strength much higher than their lightness suggests.
require some skill, but the rewards in spades. Some models may seem a bit raw, but the nobility of its functionality makes use anyone who adheres to them quickly.
The Frosts and Eriksson berries are among the most surprising. The # 1 is the Swedish labor knife par excellence, the blade can be carbon steel or stainless as excellent Sandvik 12C27, the handle is made of beech wood and painted red plastic sheath is quite unattractive . I must say, the pods are often the weak point of these knives, because it is an easy way to cut costs. Having a ability, albeit mediocre, to make own pods is very good if you plan to use them regularly. In pods expensive models are all that one might expect in the best knives. However, the modest price of nine dollars from the # 1 makes it difficult to criticism.

For those seeking something a little prettier than # 1, # 22 is the ideal knife. Is considerably more expensive (about twenty dollars), but their case is better and can be ordered with a beeswax treatment that protects and dark, wooden handle is more beautiful (a little larger than that of # 1) . [ 1 ] Mora es una ciudad sueca de gran tradición en la producción de cuchillos, comparable a Thyers en Francia o Solingen en Alemania. A tal punto es su nombre sinónimo de cuchillo que se conocen como “moras” a varios cuchillos típicos de esa localidad y, por extensión , of most of Scandinavia.

A # 22 as the photo with me for over a year. I used it for everything imaginable, I hit him with a branch to split logs, the rude carved spoons I'm leaving my step, I realized Creole ropewalk works, even helped me prepare a wild boar. Endured all fantastic. I have many more sophisticated and expensive knives that # 22, but compete with them head to head in profit. It is very light, so take it with me more often than the heavier knives. That is one reason for which survival is recognized experts recommend (as Lundin). It's easy to keep its edge to a tremendous acuity with a small pebble in hand.

addition to traditional designs with wooden handles (there are many more besides the two that name) is more modern berries with plastic handles. I do not like too much plastic-handled knives, but they have some advantages. In a knife as SWAK (Swedish Army Knife), for only eleven dollars, I can handle synthetic materials.

The SWAK is one of the best berries plastic handle, with the most sophisticated Mora 2000. Is a Swedish army knife in your kit includes survival, military knives, survival is rarely well adapted to the needs of the athlete, this is one of those cases. The major difference with traditional Moorish knives is that the plastic handle has a small guard SWAK integral and can be ordered in a variety of colors.

The Guardian, materials price and easy to maintain, along with its good quality, make this knife a very good choice as a "first knife" for a child. Better serve the proper education on the use of cutting tools that one of those garbage Asian tend to fall into the hands of children by virtue of its low price (and often colorful designs such as useless).

Of course, adults are not above this knife. It is, in my opinion, a good knife to have in a toolbox in the car, on the boat and (especially mango orange) in the survival kit. I know a couple people wearing their hunting trips or camps, to give to some helpful local guide or friend of those who always appears without a knife.

The only major drawback of plastic handle berries comparison with the wooden handle is the length of its stem. In the radiograph below may be some berries mango synthetic, First, the 760 series of Frosts (which belongs SWAK). As you can see, the ears are rather short . Although much used my 760 and it underwent a very demanding treatment, I am relying more on my # 22 with full tang. The models below are Eriksson, with much longer ears and totally reliable.

folding are also very good price and excellent quality. The first to stand out among them are two French designs: the Opinel and its lesser known cousin Douk-Douk. France is a country with a rich tradition of folding knives, each region has its own and many of his designs are appreciated worldwide, as the exquisite Laguiole or Corsican Vendetta (probably the most elegant folding knife in the world).

Opinel folding knives make their appearance in the hand of Joseph Opinel in 1890, Savoyard in the small village of Albiez-le-Vieux, as a quality tool for the Highlanders. Gets its famous brand Couronnée The Main in 1909. Since the inception of the company is offering twelve models, distinguished by their numbers. For over seventy years, the number 1 and number 11 can not be achieved. The number 1 was discontinued to reduce the popularity of watches

pocket, as it was designed to be worn on his watch chain and used to clean pipes and other small tasks that their road 2cm were sufficient. The number 11 was discontinued because the measure was too close to the 10 and 12.

in France are part of folklore, "Opinel" almost works as a synonym for folding knife and almost every French child has received one as a gift. Of all the models available, the most practical are the 7, 8 and 9. 8 is the ideal, but 9 is good when you need a little more than sheet and 7 is excellent as a pocket knife in the city.

The only problem I sometimes have the Opinel is moisture that seeps into the wood handle and makes it very difficult to open. There are several solutions, including traditional Savoyard coup "in the bottom of the handle to unlock the blade. What I recommend is thoroughly dried mango, puden make use of a hair dryer (on low power) to make sure it is completely free of moisture, then paint it with linseed oil. The more layers you give, the more waterproof it is. A matt lacquer also works well. In

all Opinel knives that I have (about ten) only one of them, a number 9 steel had to receive this treatment, others have never been too hard. Waterproof handles seven Opinels took me ten minutes and never had problems with moisture.

Opinel knives have been used by many celebrities such as Pablo Picasso small carving wooden figures presented to his acquaintances as "my treasure", but the story that I think makes clear the quality is one that includes Abel Domenech in his book "From the bowie knife." In one of his encounters with Bob Loveless, one of the legends of traditional cutlery, observed the teacher preparing one of his cigars, cut when pulled from his pocket, nothing more and nothing less than an Opinel knife (very custom cabe aclarar). Si un hombre que puede tener cualquier cuchillo que desee, y fabricar algunos de los mejores que pueden encontrarse sobre la faz de la Tierra, escoge un humilde Opinel, se debe seguramente a la calidad de este plegable francés.

Los Douk-Douk son menos conocidos que los Opinel, pero tienen una trayectoria igualmente interesante. En principio fueron diseñados como herramientas baratas para las colonias francesas, como piezas de trueque con los nativos, es decir como puros elementos de trabajo sin refinamientos. Su destino primigenio era Melanesia, región que inspiró el brujo que adorna el mango. Existen tres variantes principales (además de la ya mencionada para Melanesia): el Baraka, adornado con la Cruz de Agadez and for the Maghreb, the Tiki for Oceania and decorated in a Tahitian idol, and the Squirrel, for the French market which had a style sheet "Bourbon" (id est, lanceolate) and the cute little animal that gives its name engraved on the handle.

One of the best and most synthetic characterizations I've read about the Douk-Douk belongs to Jean-Noel Mouret, in his book "The world of the knife"

"Knife-Douk Douk was successful in all former French colonies. Cheap article produced in astronomical quantities sold for a minimum of a thick, ie twelve dozen ... and yet it was not cheesy. The proof is that the colonies are just a memory, while the Douk-Douk is still present "

addition to the original versions, there are now models with stainless steel blades (stamped" 440 "at the base of the leaf), different sizes and even a Douk-Douk "tactical" black leaf.

As you can see in the pictures are crude, some (myself included) might even consider them ugly, but nobody can deny that they are true quality tools for hard work. The knives of the photos are, in descending order, one-Douk Douk Melanesian, a squirrel (French Market) a Baraka (the Maghreb) and Tiki (for Oceania).









Although not associated just with a cheap product, knives and Swiss jército are when compared with many other products

cutlery industry, a real bargain. Sure, we all saw those huge models include any tool that can happen to us and they cost a pretty penny, but are intermediate models they really offer value for money

The most versatile folding knife, and more "politically correct" is undoubtedly the Swiss Army knife. You can cover all daily needs, is of excellent quality and price is quite affordable (with the exception of some models).

can be used alone or in addition to a larger knife (either folding or fixed blade). To be used as the primary tool, I prefer models 110mm or 85mm Victorinox Wenger Sécurité is good to have a sheet of 91mm models bloqueo.Los Victorinox (and no lock 85mm Wenger) prefer to use in support of a larger knife with block (or fixed blade).

Having the most basic models of Swiss Army Knife equipped to face many of the small daily problems, and will prevent your main knife as a screwdriver or unpleasant tasks operate as a lever (tasks that are not designed and that, in addition to damage, will condemn you to hell for all eternity). Even those who do not like knives, these tools seem useful pocket and quickly become accustomed to if they carry an utterly at the time accurate.

If you are not an obsessive like me, one of these folding (no need for another knife) will serve perfectly well for everyday chores. They were tested in diverse environments, from the NASA space shuttle to an elevator on fire in Pittsburg.

What model to choose? The options are many, and you have a fondness for knives at least end up with a small collection in a short time (each model will, of course, a very convincing excuse to justify its acquisition). Some people quickly find the model that fits their needs. For example, who will work repairing computers that either Cybertools is superbly prepared for the task. For those who travel a lot, the Voyager with your alarm clock and flashlight (in version Lite) are ideal companions. There are models for the minimalist (Waiter, for example), who loves to have a toolbox on your belt (SwissChamp XLT) and those who need strength and simplicity (Alox models, among which is the knife that is equipped to Swiss soldiers).

My recommendation is: Carefully evaluate what you need and think about the tools you already have and requires no in SAK (Swiss Army Knife). For example, today I have a Buck 110 and Leatherman Micra on my belt, I do not need any of my SAKs with scissors or a blade to work. Victorinox Camper model would be a good option in this case, because it adds and bottle openers, saw, awl and corkscrew, with two leaves (smaller than the 110). If you were to take only a SAK, choose a model Workchamp complete as well.

generally prefer intermediate models, which are two to four layers (see the back of one of these knives and understand what are the layers) available in 91mm (85mm in the case of Wenger) for the city and 110mm (120mm in the case of Wenger) for outdoor activities. This is due to several reasons. First, I bring another knife for heavier tasks and a multitool in the bag (especially for the clips), so do not need more than an intermediate tool between the main and multi-tool knife. Also in that size are easier to carry in your pocket (secured to one of the key rings of Victorinox, lest they get lost). Finally, and this is important, models such as the Spartan, Tinker, including Huntsman fairly comprehensive, robust Pioneer, Soldier and Farmer have one of the best relationship between price, quality and usefulness can be offered (the same applies to similar models Wenger), also 110mm models like the Hunter or Trekker achieved on an extremely good price for such quality.

Of course, while more complete models require a significant investment, are not We do not recommend spending.

Whenever we talk about Saks raises the question: Victorinox or Wenger? Recently the two came together when Victorinox bought Wenger, so that you have your answer. However, as it was announced that the product lines will remain unchanged, it is worth devoting a portion of this article is true battle of titans.

First, it is clear that in both cases they are excellent tools offered at a reasonable price, either of the two brands will serve without problems. Victorinox

is reputed to be more careful in the completion of their knives, but that I have not been verified by comparing the copies I own both brands. I do think that the springs used by Wenger are a little weaker.

The differences between these two brands in terms of formats and tools offered are as follows:

  • standard size Victorinox is 91mm and 110mm large. Wenger uses 85mm and 120mm. The 85mm Wenger are great as a knife or other support in case of having really small space. There are other sizes offered by these two brands: 58mm (Victorinox Classic pocket knife sold in history), 74mm (Victorinox Executive), 84mm (Victorinox Small Tinker) and 108mm (Victorinox Safari Trooper), 93mm (Wenger Standard Issue).
  • In the larger models, Wenger leaves design uses "clipped point" instead of the traditional lanceolate. The main blades of the regular models are narrower than the back of Victorinox, but have a "belly" more pronounced. Wenger offers more models with leaf edge serrations or combination (part plain and part serrated).
  • Instead of the small blade Victorinox usually include in their models cellidor (this is the name of the red plastic) of 91mm, Wenger has a nail file, although some models have a small point blade clip ..
  • Wenger scissors are designed stronger than the spring used by Victorinox. Unfortunately, they have the wavy edge, I prefer the smooth edge of Victorinox, but some people like the blade of the scissors Wenger.
  • Wenger, according to some bound by virtue of his second son, offers many new features on the classic Swiss Army knife as a screwdriver that lock the lobby, traditional models work sizes, fabrics and designs for the handles, clamps not folding (in the Pocket Grip), etc . Victorinox only in recent years has introduced new features (like its Lite model, SwissMemory, etc.).
  • Punch Wenger is not keen.
  • Wenger magnifiers have a metal frame with a small screwdriver at the tip.
  • Instead of including as it does on some models Victorinox, a compass separately Wenger has some models with a small built-in compass. Unfortunately, given the amount of steel that surrounds it, and the low accuracy of water so small compass, not very useful.
  • Opener design Wenger has a "hook" for what is lost in small screwdriver that has the Victorinox opener at the tip. This is not very important in models with many uses, because there is less need that screwdriver, but it shows the models with fewer accessories.

There are other minor differences, but not irrelevant. The decision between the two brands is very personal, vece is due to a specific model that produces only one, others to a particular aesthetic criteria and, especially among machairólogos for a particular liking to one of the two manufacturers. My advice is to test models of both houses (even manipulating them in a business) and decide which you like best. I have no preference for Victorinox and Wenger knives use both for different things, I find their differences are very beneficial for users to give us more options, all with excellent quality.

A friend and fan of Swiss Army knives gave me advice to buy the first. He should start with a minimalist model, perhaps something as basic as a Waiter Victorinox. Use a little, then situations will arise where I wish I had one more tool. Then buy the biggest model you can (as a SwissChamp or Pocket Tool Box), besides being useful will serve as a kind of catalog live to see the tools offered by the brand. After a while of using both, the largest left over functions (notice that there are tools that have never used) and the simplest is missing some things. Look for a model that has what you need without the things that do not use. Sometimes this model does not exist, but among the offerings of Victorinox and Wenger must be able to find something that comes close enough.

In short, you need Swiss Army knife. No matter what else takes over, can hardly be over.

I think these little knives archiconocidos cells do not require further submission, but I would like to add some things. First highlight the amazing thing about their quality produce 34000 Victorinox pocket knives per day (if we consider their other catalog offers production is multiplied by four) and their quality control is so perfect that they are all perfect. In the unlikely event that theirs had a problem, the Victorinox lifetime guarantee allows you to return it and get a new one without charge. This warranty is probably the best on the market, the only ones that are close are the airlines or manufacturers of craft whose prices are way above those of Victorinox.

Another important fact for those who are set on these things, is that the company remains in the hands of the Elsener family and maintains the policy that was established when Switzerland was one of the poorest countries in Europe, employing the people in the valley of Ibach, secure and stable jobs. Stable are these sources of work the last time there was a layoff at the Victorinox factory was for seventy-five years.

When the events of September 11 reduced Victorinox and Wenger sales by 40% (airports, and even aircraft, had been major outlets so far), the merged company of Delémont. Carl Elsener was bought for a sum that remained in secrecy in Swiss hands to keep it absolutely everything and kept a staff of his old rival. Does not it seem much better to give some money to good cutlery Carl that those who use slave labor in China?

One of the unintended consequences of September 11 was the appearance of an incredible amount of Victorinox knives used in the market. As I said before, many people do not even consider knives and often forget that they have on your keyring. With new security regulations for airlines, seizing a huge quantity of these knives and government agencies were put on sale. Some vendors, especially those with online stores and specialize in rare or discontinued models now offer Swiss Army knives in excellent condition (always use a reliable seller) for a ridiculous price, a Huntsman, for example, can be bought for seven dollars.

folding

Another excellent and moderately priced, is the Buck 110. long was the knife which compared all other folding hunting. Many believe that was the precursor of the new tactical folding. It is robust, probably one of the most robust on the market, good size and aesthetically pleasing. It is lightweight and compact and the steel sheet is not one of the modern "steel marvel," but Buck has excellent thermal treatment management allowing you to take much more of a mediocre as the 420HC steel. His popularity in the United States is enormous, a few years ago was the standard knife of any hiker, hunter or rural worker. Even today you can get for one low price (around $ 25).


Verdu Francisco Malini