CHAPTER II
Smithies, Anvils , Hammers ....
Forge is where we will concentrate in forging temperature and possibly temper our leaves.
There are several types and models. From the handle to the propane gas all more or less fulfilled their duties efficiently it is heated steel.
coal forges are easy to improvise and economic to build. Intrudciendo simply a pipe with holes in a pile of burning coal and using a hair dryer can generate enough heat to forge and temper.
Other forges a little more equipped with the best results are to handle. They have a turbine that is operated by turning a lever. This allows us to regulate the air flow and thus the temperature. They are also of simple construction and highly recommended for beginners.
Gas ovens are very efficient if done well. Ideally, use an oven that has the inside cylindrical and covered with the best material refractory possible. To be cylindrical and have the tangential heat input is used to center the better the flame along the route that you have. The square oven work but also consume more gas and take longer to heat up.
Anvils:
The anvil is where we will shape our sheets, riveted the ends, and do a thousand things. It is simple but very important for the blacksmith.
That should be the anvil? The main thing is to have good weight and surface area to hit. You have to calculate that the anvil must be at least 3 times heavier than the blade, but the hammer, but the force of the blow. So as you can but do not have the same capacity to absorb the blows of the hammer and it will affect our bones. Need a minimum of 20 Kgs. Can be forged on an anvil lighter? If
Almost everyone uses as a first anvil railroad track, which is not bad because it is to get an anvil is going to a china shop and try to get a block
discarded steel. If we have a chance to get an anvil itself better, and the heavier the better.
Several of the more common types are twofold. English style with round horn, step and long flat table, and the anvil
Hammers and Maces.
main thing to look for in a hammer or mallet to shape the distribution of weight, then the form, and finally the material that is made.
need the part of the hammer face is heavier than the rest, this makes the blow always try to fall that way and prevents product movement imbalance.
The shape and weight is directly related to the function that the hammer will do, if it is to stretch is not the same as that used to lower edge or riveting.
1) Maza of 1.5 kgs of circular or round, it is advisable to get a Hammer ball that weight. This will use it to stretch and to lower the first edge. The cape is thin and comfortable to allow for different grips.
2) Hammer 500 g ball, this is used to stretch thin edges for riveting, and to provide sensitive ways.
3) Maza of 1.5 French or sentence style. This club is ideal for material stretch and board thickness. It has a flat section on one side and a soft wedge another. The cape is thick and makes it ideal for jobs requiring strength.
All of these hammers vary by builder, myself I have like 5 more. But are the basics.
Material hammer.
I always use soft iron or annealed steel. I try to avoid hard cocks for two reasons. 1 am interested in avoiding any brand in the cast so I prefer to be dented a little hammer and I do not check the sheet, 2 the value is too low and are easily available and up to do.
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